A few years ago I turned this old, brown tv console
We’ve moved since then and this is the only decent picture I could find of it when the mirrors were still in. Hard to tell, but it’s a really light blue. One of the mirrors broke when we moved to Alaska and the other broke when my daughter cartwheeled into it (she was totally fine, but it made me think twice about having mirrored furniture). I didn’t want to do mirrors again and have them break, so I used hardboard instead this time. If you want to do mirrors, the process is the same as putting hardboard in the doors. Lowe’s will cut mirrors to size for you for pretty inexpensive.
I had distressed it after I painted it blue, but I wasn’t loving this look anymore. This time around I’m planning on selling it because we’re moving back to Arizona and selling all our furniture. Staying neutral when you’re wanting to sell upcycled furniture is the safest way to go, especially if you want to sell it fast.
(2) 1 x 2 x 8s
STEP 1: SAND AND WIPE DOWN Remove any hardware, then sand completely and wipe of ALL dust.
For a project like this you can easily sand by hand. If you plan on doing multiple projects or take on painting kitchen cabinets or decide to start building, you’ll definitely want a good sander! Here’s the one I use…
STEP 2: ADD HARDBOARD OR MIRROR AND X’s
Lowe’s will cut hardboard to the size you want. I used mirror clips to attach.
The easiest way is to screw in the 2 clips on the bottom first, then put the hardboard in. To know exactly where the top clip will go, rest the clip on top of the hardboard and drill right through the hole.
Here’s a view from the front.
Install the other hardboard.
I didn’t decide that the doors needed something extra until after I had primed and painted 1 coat. If you’re adding anything to the doors, do it before you paint.
To measure the longer piece, I started by cutting the top at a 20-degree angle, then marking with a pencil where I should make the bottom cut. It’s always better to cut a bit longer than you think you need to, check the fit, then go back and cut some more if you have to. Your long pieces will look like parallelograms…
The shorter pieces are harder. There’s got to be an easier way to do this, but here’s how I did it. For each short piece, cut one side at a 20-degree angle (this is the side that will touch the corner of your door, not the side that meets the other piece of wood to create an X). Then hold the piece so it reaches the opposite corner and use a pencil to mark where the cut should be on each short side of the board.
Then draw a straight line from your mark on each short side…
Continue the line so it wraps around the corner to the wider side of the board, then connect the two lines…
That’s the angle you need to cut. These smaller pieces will be shaped like trapezoids, not parallelograms.
This cut was a bit difficult because it was a few degrees greater than the max of 45 on the miter saw. I put a thin piece of wood behind one side (the side farther from the saw) of the piece I was cutting to help get it at the right angle.
Use Gorilla Glue to attach, then tape down while the glue dries.
When dry, use paintable caulking to fill in any gaps. The easiest way to do this is squeeze a line out of the tube of caulking onto the gap, then smooth it down with a wet finger and wipe excess with a paper towel.
STEP 3: 2 COATS OF PRIMER
This console is so big and heavy, so I didn’t want to move it to paint it. Instead, I put plastic bags underneath it and a couple 2x2s to raise the front.
Use the brush to apply primer and the roller to smooth it out. Make sure you get the crevices first with the brush, then roll out the larger areas. Wait for primer to dry between coats.
STEP 4: 2 COATS OF PAINT I didn’t like the color of white paint that I had because it was too stark white, so I looked around online to see if anyone had a white they really liked and I found a post by Julie Blanner saying that “Creamy” in satin by Sherwin Williams is the way to go. She said it matched the white kids’ furniture from Pottery Barn. See her post here. I have to say I agree; it’s a beautiful shade of white. Paint the same way you primed…brush, then roll.
STEP 5: PROTECTIVE COAT
Use 2-3 coats of something that will protect it. The easiest is a spray paint protective enamel. You can also do a wipe-on poly, but be really careful to not get bubbles.
You can find it here on Amazon.
STEP 6: REATTACH HARDWARE You’re done!
You can take a piece of sandpaper to the edges and corners if you want a more rustic or farmhouse look.