I’ve read through tutorials where people DIY furniture using real metal and am completely awestruck. So impressive. Even though I’ve considered trying it myself a few times, there is no metal-working scenario I can run through in my head that doesn’t end up with me in the ER, having sliced myself on the sharp metal edges, haha.
For any of you who love to DIY but just aren’t up for working with metal yet (or ever), I’ve got a solution for you! EZFaux Décor makes a Stainless Steel film that actually looks like real stainless steel. You can it on a dishwasher, fridge or oven, but ours are already stainless steel so I wanted to create something else to use it on. After tossing a few ideas around, I finally decided on a rustic industrial coffee table.
Just FYI: The whole project would’ve been a lot easier if I would’ve used 2x4s instead of 4x4s for the legs, and I think it might look more proportional with 2x4s for legs.
1″x24″x48″ board from Lowe’s for the top. This type of board is more expensive, but it’s completely straight and in very good condition.
To attach the EZFaux Décor Stainless Steel film I ripped the paper backing from the middle of the film and centered it on the wood board, then gradually smoothed each side from the middle to the ends. Their film is gorgeous! I’ve used marble and stainless steel so far and have been so impressed with both of those. Disclosure: EZFaux Décor sent me this product to try out, but I am not being compensated for this post and all opinions are my own.
The top ended up perfect, but the sides were a bit tricky and bubbled a bit. Probably because I didn’t use anything except my hands to apply it. Cut the 4×4 (or 2×4 if you’d rather have smaller legs) into four 16″-18″ pieces, depending on how tall you want your coffee table to be. Remember to take into account the height of the tabletop. If you’d like the legs to be angled, make parallel cuts at 10-degree angles on each piece. Sand each piece.
The length of your 2x4s will depend on the width of your coffee table. Mine are 11 inches. Cut 4 of these pieces, sand and drill 2 pocket holes in each side of each piece. Drill one piece at the top and one about 5-6 inches from the bottom. If you want to set them back a bit, set the 11-inch piece on top of another 2×4, as pictured below.
Make 2 of these.
Set the legs on the table top (with everything upside down), make measurements to center them, and trace around the legs.
Put some heavy duty glue on each leg, then set them exactly where your traced lines are. I added some pocket holes to each leg to make it more secure. Again, this would have been easier with 2x4s since 4x4s don’t fit in the Kreg Jig.
I don’t like to cut all of my pieces ahead of time. I do it as I go to make sure every piece is a perfect fit. I waited to cut the trestle piece until I had the legs attached to the tabletop. I cut a 10-degree angle on one side of the 2×4 trestle piece, then brought it over to the rest of the coffee table to see how long it needed to be. I always cut a bit longer than what I think I’ll need, check for fit, then cut more if I have to. Amazingly, I cut this piece perfectly the first time, which almost never happens. I usually make a few cuts to get it just right, but I’d rather do that then be off with a measurement and cut it short, wasting the entire piece of lumber. I’m assuming expert builders don’t build this way, it’s just what works for me. I used some glue along with 3 pocket holes on each side to attach it. I measured to the right and left of each side to make sure it was centered, then I measured from the top of each 11″ piece it’s attached to to make sure it was going to end up straight.
I was a bit tempted to stain it, since I love stained wood, but I wanted to go for a really rustic, natural look with this table so decided to leave it this way. I’ll put finishing wax on all of it to protect it.
I kept looking at the table as it was and knew that it needed something more.
I decided to add two diagonal 1x2s to add a little interest to the table. This was a bit of a pain because my miter saw only goes to about 47 degrees and I needed one of the angles bigger than that. I made parallel cuts at the biggest angle the miter saw would allow, then used a power sander to sand down one of the angles until it was at the angle I needed. To figure out the right angle, I kept checking for fit on the coffee table. When they were FINALLY ready, I glued them in place with Gorilla Glue (Liquid Nails works too), made sure they were centered, then taped them down. I put the regular cut angle on the trestle piece (pictured below) and the angle I sanded on the bottom side of the tabletop.
And here are the angles I sanded down to fit.
After you have one piece of tape on each side, take a step back and make sure they are placed how you want them, then adjust if needed. Add more tape to make sure it’s really secure. Allow the glue to dry overnight, then add nails or screws.
Here’s the final product!
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